Dream scene
Pink Olive may have an odd name but houses a familiar ambition. Donald Reid sees if the dream has become a reality
he restaurant world consumes an awful
lot of dreams. Iiveryone who has ever
eaten out has discussed how they would
do things better. and anyone who has ever
worked in a restaurant has nurtured a blueprint for world. or at least neighbourhood. domination.
Pink ()live is one such project. It arrived at the beginning of the summer in the old Phenecia: a corner site. right beside lidinburgh University. a nice size. no need for anything too drastic and expensive when it came to smartening the place tip.
()wner Kay McBride has worked for years as a manager for the Howies chain and at First Coast. and when the time and place was right to give it a go on her own. she had the plan well-honed in her head. ‘The idea was to make it look fresh and a wee bit funky but still horner and welcoming.‘ she explains. ‘We'd provide the best product for the best price: honest. unfussy. real food with relaxed. friendly service.‘
When an ethos such as this comes from the heart rather than a rather too-slick press release its an encouraging sign. McBride cranks tip the charm further with her explanation of the slightly off-putting name. ‘It‘s named after my Gran ‘()live' and the passion I share with her for all things pink. We opened on her 97th birthday and she flew up from Devon especially.~
In a number of ways. Pink ()live follows its spirited script. The interior has tasteful khaki paintwork. an eye-catching purple-striped banquette. single candles and real flowers to create warmth and ease. The menus are compact yet adaptable. competitively priced and studded with interesting looking ingredients. Mention of suppliers such as Gilmour's butchers and (‘ampbell‘s lishmonger reinforce the local orientation.
The disappointment is that too many dishes underwhelrn. Haggis ravioli is a lacklustre reinvention. particularly when a turnip veloute beneath it turns otrt to be a thick puree of the root vegetable. with barely an o of oomph. Points gained for offering the sustainable lythe
THE IDEA WAS TO MAKE IT LOOK FRESH AND A WEE BIT FUNKY BUT STILL HOMELY AND WELCOMING
(aka pollackl are lost by serving it with unseasonal asparagus. though the reason the dish eventually falls on the wrong side of the pass mark is a soft. thick coating of tapenade on the liin that‘s billed as (and needs to he) a crust. More clear cut is a veggie dish of heavy. solid gnocchi with bland. unappetising ricotta sauce. liven vegetarians disappointed by mediocre
55-57 West Nicolson Street, Edinburgh
0131 662 4493. wwwilovepinkolivecouk Open Tue—Sat noon—2.30pm, 5—10pm, Sun (breakfast/roast) 10.30am—3.30pm. Two-course
lunch £7.95; two—course dinner £16.95.
offerings down the years would sigh. Though there are dishes on the menu with more to commend them: smooth. kitchen-made chicken liver parfait. for example. and a popular grilled hallourni salad. there‘s not yet enough evidence that the kitchen is delivering its side of the bargain in the potentially promising dream that is Pink ()live.
LIVING THE DREAM
Sonny & Vito's
52 Park Road, Glasgow, 0141 357 0640, www.sonnyandvitosdeli.co.uk
This is the very personal project of chef Mario Pelosi and Angela Mullen: they even named it after their twin boys. After years SIOgging away at more conventional bistro. Otago. they turned to this daytime Kelvinbridge cafe. partly as a lifestyle choice and partly because of their evident love for baking.
10 THE LIST 18 Ser)— 2 Oct 2008
Alla Turca
192 Pitt Street, Glasgow, 0141 332 5300, www.a|laturca.co.uk
Oran MOr's former brasserie manager Burak Soyusinme/ is on a mission to show that there's a lot more to Turkish cuisine than (loo'gy post bub kebabs. Highlights include tratlitional (lishes, stylish motlern creations. han<l~ma<le art thy his munu. Turkish (lrinks and regular live traditional music.
Bnou
2 Restalrig Road, Edinburgh, 0131 538 0664, www.bijoubistro.co.uk
Li/a Robinson was a long standing restaurant manager at Blue Bar Cafe in Edinburgh's West End before she set off to the remote regions Of Leith links to establish the tiny BIJOU. It serves takeaway bacon butties and evening bistro meals. scoring a bit wrth loyal locals anrl Visitors alike.