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If the auld claes and porridge of the economic recession are getting a bit tiresome, the refurbished Rutland Hotel is yet another Capital spot for

defiant decadence. Donald Reid put on his glad rags

nce trpon a time lidinburgh was slightly

superior. Now the (ilasgwegilication of

the capital has swaggered out of George

Street and onto the West lind. Nose onto Princes

Street. with its tantalising views of the Castle.

Calton Hill and lidinbur‘gh‘s historic roadworks.

and you‘ll see that the Rutland Hotel is back on the map after a long period in faded obscurity.

Reopened this summer by .\'ic and Crarreth

Wood‘s Signature Pub (iroup. one of a number

of small but ambitious lidinburgh bar-restaurant- club operations. the hotel has four floors lavishly fitted otrt with chandeliers. extravagant seating. expensive wallpapers and moody lighting.

The I] bedrooms have king-size plasma screens and relentless modern baroque decor. while the late-night lounge club in the basement boasts gimmicks/impressive features (you choose) such as a touch-reactive bar and a string of intimate. low-ceilinged alcoves with iPod docking stations and built—in champagne buckets.

The restaurant. located on the first floor. has its own sultry look in deep red and black with mirrored columns. heavy leather armchairs and three eight-seater tables half screened by stringy drapes and positioned in the prime spots looking out to Princes Street and the Castle.

For the dining experience. it’s welcome that the restaurant is separated. at least physically. from the glitz and glamour all around. Cleverly. the hubbub of the street—level bar travels up through a central opening. background warmth to the intense chill out soundtrack.

If the food was to live up to the tone set

elsewhere in the hotel. it could be some sort of

gruesome modern mish-mash. llead chef David llaet/man. however. puts too much faith in decent. simple produce a respectable amount of it Scottish and not too pricey to fall into that

1“ OVER THE TOP AND

giving a bit of

‘»'.’“\,. h .‘l ’* 'rr‘qfi' g ,t-r rs!“ , .r w In - ilil , .

I: "a .‘3’ r

HEAD CHEF DAVID HAETZMAN PUTS

FAITH IN DECENT, SIMPLE PRODUCE

obvious trap. He has plates of shellfish or smoked fish. grilled meat and whole lemon sole adorned with little more than a salty butter and new potatoes.

When things head into more complicated territory. such as roast quail cleverly stuffed with light black pudding mousse. the imaginative instinct is strong. cauliflower and pistachio koftas a bold dish is tainted a little by a sourish tamarind aftertaste.

AWAY WE GO

though in the case of

THE RUTLAND HOTEL

1-3 Rutland Street, Edinburgh 0131 229 3402. www.therutland.com Two course business lunch £12; average price two—course

evening meal £22

l-lowever much the main menu shows restraint. a place clearly attracting those investment bankers who still have a job and footballers‘ wives spending their man's generous (if delayed) wage packet. desserts need to dress to impress. They do. with an SOs-tribute peach melba and a light. sharp lemon posset the latest in dessert trends spawned of creme brulee and lemon tart getting it on. After all. they’d spent a lot of time in each others company.

rm 5. Ally

80 Wellington Street, Glasgow, 0141 226 2286, www.fifi-and-a|ly.com

Despite l. drnburgh's interpretation of gallus Glasgow. there aren't that many examples of CW extravagance. Here. a houdoir-esgue interior of black gossamer lampshades. ornate mirrors and 'crrgue de solerl' wallpaper is matched by fresh. well- prepared and often beautiful looking food.

10 THE LIST if} (it. ()(;t 7008

The Cameron Grill

De Vere Cameron House Hotel, by Balloch, 01389 755565, www.devere.co.uk

An attempt at themed extravagance in a country setting. Cameron House's bistro-grill aims for the atmosphere of a decadent Highland chieftain's feast. wrth huge crackling fireplaces. oversi/ed armcharrs and a sweeping “Last Supper' mural. The menu is predictably (‘lominated by large hunks of r‘neat.

querLlly

125 George Street, Edinburgh, 0131 225 5005, www.tigerlilyedinburgh.co.uk

Never knowmgly modest Ill any degree. from the chain-marl drapes to the louche pink lighting. TrgerLily is the wonderfully ridiculous and defiantly decadent queen of bling Ill Edinburgh's over—styled heartland. Food amonst the champagne includes sharing platters. seafood and dessert cocktails.