Screen bites
Ghasala Butt charts the enduring importance of food in Bollywood cinema
hen a l‘)7()s Indian journalist labelled populist Hollywood films as ‘masala
movies‘ — a dollop of drama. pinch of
comedy. stirred in with some song and dance — Indian cinema’s association with food became firmly established. While the masala tnovies evoke a spicy mixture of everything in the traditional bollywood blockbuster. food has become a diverse metaphor in Bollywood cinema: symbolising culture. tradition. family values. and the significance of female gender roles.
In the post—independence 50s and (30s food was a metaphor for liberty. self-sacrifice. and community. Who can forget the desperate. iconic .\'argis in .l’IUI/Ir'l' lm/iu telling the defiant seven-year-old Birju to throw away his roti. reclaimed from the mud. After a few hungry bites Birju agrees. thereby rejecting help from the moneylender. .\'argis and her sorts strive for independence. cultivating the land with their own hands. sowing the seeds of self-sufficiency.
By the 7()s. providing food for the family was an excuse for all manner ofgangsta/gunda types. as impoverished street urchins grew up into wealthy ganglords. The anti—heroes of Dcmvur. Klimm l’usinu. and Rafi Kupm/(l xllll' .llukuun. were 'forced‘ into crime. initially to provide rations for their ailing family. as was the courtesan/cabaret dancer: a glamorous. yet chaste female lead. selling her charms to feed a long lost family/relative (Rekha in Sit/mag).
In the 80s food became a metaphor for social success. sophistication and social climbing as witnessed in Suite I" .S'utru. In a pivotal scene. llema prepares a lavish feast for her brothers-in- law who leap upon the dishes in a savage manner. llema scoldds them as they are ’not worthy" and unlit for ‘polite society".
More recently. the masala formula has made way for more eclectic. international Bollywood movies. I‘ood brings India home to ‘.\’Rls' (non- resident lndiansl and the wider international market. In Ku/ Hr) Nuu Hr) Shahrukh Khan charms his way into the family through the kitchen. by teaching Jaya Bachchan's Jenny how to prepare 'proper authentic‘ food. By returning to her desi masala roots. Jenny's ailing New York restaurant become a success. Jenny becomes a ‘proper’ mother. who can now cook Indian food correctly. thus highlighting the importance of culture. tradition and ‘home‘.
I‘ood enters the male terrain in (Maori Kum. Amitabh Bachchan‘s egotistical London chef is brought down to earth when ’I'abu suggests he add a little less sugar to his speciality
12 THE LIST :sii ()(Lt 115M). woe
adapted
FOOD HAS BECOME A DIVERSE METAPHOR IN BOLLYWOOD CINEMA
biryani dish (‘cheeni kum next time please‘). She is the Iirst woman to question his expertise. and consequently challenge his masculinity. Soon his irritation turns to affection. providing a backdrop for a cross-generalional love story. which sees them return to India.
In the historical drama of .lmlliuu .‘lk/Nll'. Jodhaa‘s loyalty to King Akbar is challenged in the laviin feast she prepares. The key scene with Aishwarya Rai tests her social status. purity and role as devoted wife -— is she
her culinary skills‘.’ Of course. ultimately. she is stunning. loyal and obviously a brilliant cook.
liood in Bollywood movies doesn‘t just provide sustenance: it signifies financial success. aspirations. and what it means to be all accotttplislied mother/wife for female leads. A heady. exhilarating. and often pungent combination. enough to satisfy the appetite of any Bollywood fan.
poisoning him or showing off
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AALOO TIKKI AUR PUDINE KI CHUTNEY
Potato cutlets with mint chutney
This is Abhishek Bachchan’s favourite dish. and it's very popular with the whole family. Across India. there are variations on the stuffing, from mashed peas to spice blends. but the Bachchans prefer it simple and don't stuff theirs. Mint chutney is always prepared from the fresh herb and not kept overnight. as the flavour deteriorates quickly.
To make the mint chutney. whizz the ingredients in a blender and set aside.
Combine the mashed potatoes with the ground cumin seeds. black pepper and the salt to taste. Shape the mixture into 12 cutlets.
Heat a little oil in a skillet on a medium heat. Place the potato cutlets gently into the pan, cook for one minute then increase the heat. Turn them over and continue to cook. Perfect cutlets are crisp on both sides and golden brown in colour.
Place on paper towels to drain the oil and serve piping hot with the chutney.
For the mint chutney
902 mint leaves
1 large onion
2 large whole green chiles juice of 3 lemons
1/2 teaspoon rock salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
For the cutlets
3 1/2le potatoes, boiled, peeled, cooled and mashed
2 tablespoons cumin seeds, roasted and ground
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
6 teaspoons vegetable oil
salt to taste