LiveIt SpotlightOnEdinburgh’sOldTown
An oldie but a goodie
It may be best known for some of the city’s most impressive attractions, but Anna Millar finds an Old Town offering so much more
N ot for nothing is the Old Town famed for its tartan tat. From Jimmy hats to bagpipes and ‘I Heart Scotland’ badges to ‘I Love Ewe’ cards, it’s all too easy to write off Auld Reekie’s historical hub as simply a place to partake in the city’s tourist-laden jollies. Sure, it boasts the lion’s share of Edinburgh’s must-sees (more of that later), but in the past decade the Old Town has become so much more. From its growing cafe culture (Always Sunday and the Elephant House, we salute you) and old-school watering holes to its award-winning restaurants and vintage emporiums, the Old Town now does considerably more than it says on the (shortbread) tin. From David Bann, Maison Bleue, Cafe Marlayne and Hanams to The Witchery and The Tower, the area has plenty of options for those keen to dine out in style. Across at Tangs you can enjoy some nosh and check out their sushi classes.
From old town boozers on the Mile, to more
stylish additions like the Missoni Bar and Monteith’s, places to wet the whistle after a hard day’s work or play are in plentiful supply. The newish addition of the GRV, alongside the Caves – not to mention a hive of other clubbing options – mean the party down Old Town way can keep going for as long as you want it to. Fashionistas won’t be disappointed either, boasting a treasure trove of options, the area’s a- buzz with life. Books, art and music lovers should also find ample reason to be cheerful with Underground Solu’shun, Analogue and The Red Door Gallery all in residence. For those looking to mark their experience, there’s even tattoos and piercings a-go-go at Tribal Body Art.
DON’T MISS
Scottish Parliament
THE PALACE KEEPS AN EYE ON ITS MORE CONTEMPORARY NEIGHBOURS
For something a bit more sedate, and if you’ve time to spare, head up Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park for one of the best views over the Old Town. On a clear day you can see all the way to the jagged coastline of the Forth Estuary and beyond. After you’ve had an eyeful, head back down the Radical Road to the bottom of Salisbury Crags and get ready to explore. A tale of two cities, from the foot of the Mile up, there’s a wealth of things to see and do. The
Palace of Holyrood House, in all its resplendent glory, keeps an eye on its more contemporary neighbours, namely the Scottish Parliament and Our Dynamic Earth. The Old Town more than earns the city its UNESCO World Heritage Site status, too, with the Poetry Library nestled down a lane in the Canongate, and Holyrood Abbey sitting beautifully nearby. Keep wandering up the Mile to St Giles Cathedral, with the Royal Museum and Surgeons’ Hall both just a short walk away. A pit stop at Deacon Brodie’s, or a swift dram at the Scotch Whisky Experience should stand you in good stead for the final frontier, up past Camera Obscura and on to the mighty Castle. Then take a pew, rest your paws and look out over the city in all its splendour.
A stirring recital St Giles’ Cathedral, High St, 0131 225 4363 Sitting in the heart of Parliament Square, St Giles’ beautifully ornate stonework make it more than worth a look, but for the ultimate experience, don’t miss one of their lunchtime or early evening concerts and recitals. Highlights for the coming month include Britten’s ‘Missa Brevis’ on Sun 27 Sep at 6pm.
Getting spooked www.edinburghliterary pubtour.co.uk, 0800 169 7410 or www.mercattours. com, 0131 225 5445 One thing Embra certainly isn’t lacking in is ghost tours and the Royal Mile has them in spades. For a trip round Edinburgh’s gloomy closes and dark underground vaults look no further than Mercat Tours. Scaredy cats can head for a more sedate literary tour. A wee dram The Scotch Whisky Experience, 354 Castlehill, 0131 220 0441 You’ve got to love an attraction that actively encourages a wee tipple, and the Scotch Whisky Experience does just that. Learn all there is to know about the national drink, or simply sit back and enjoy the wondrous supplies of whisky cocktails on offer.
12 THE LIST 24 Sep–8 Oct 2009