For more on the Edinburgh’s Old Town visit www.list.co.uk > Six of the Best
ATTRACTIONS Eating & Drinking: Old Town
■ OUR DYNAMIC EARTH Situated next to the mighty Holyrood Palace and across the road from the worth-a-sneaky- peek Scottish Parliament, Our Dynamic Earth is a firm favourite whatever your age. Charting Earth’s evolution from the big bang to the modern day through a series of interactive exhibitions, including an earthquake simulator and a tropical rainstorm, there’s plenty here to wile away an afternoon. Holyrood Road, 0131 550 7800, www.dynamicearth.co.uk
■ CAMERA OBSCURA AND WORLD OF ILLUSIONS A great shout for those heading to the top of the Mile for the Castle, this quirky attraction affords visitors a real-time, 360° image of the city. The most recent addition to the venue is the Magic Gallery, giving hands-on experiences of the art of visual trickery. There is also an exhibition devoted to holographs and photography on the lower floors. Castlehill, Royal Mile, 0131 226 3709, www.camera- obscura.co.uk
La Garrigue 31 Jeffrey Street, 0131 557 3032 This pretty French bistro, just off Canongate, has the feel of a small gallery space about it with its welcoming disposition, colourful demeanour, lavender walls and warm sunshine glow. More importantly, the food doesn’t disappoint. Hitlisted in our Eating & Drinking Guide, starters range from trout fillet on a bed of chickpeas to croquette of slow-cooked pig’s head. Wedgwood 67 Canongate, 0131 558 8737 Setting its tasty wares a stone’s throw from the tartan tat of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, Wedgwood is the sophisticated yin to the tourist-driven yang. The atmosphere is buzzing and warm, and the service attentive. The menu reflects the Wedgwood commitment to creating imaginative twists on traditional dishes, so expect plenty of surprises. Starters and mains include scallops, pollack and baby squid.
Oink 34 Victoria Street Pork lovers rejoice! Simple is best down Oink’s way and certainly there aren’t many menus in Edinburgh as short: choose a roll stuffed with slow- roast pork or a roll stuffed with slow roast pork with crackling. The roll can be white or brown, haggis is an alternative to sage and onion stuffing, or there’s chilli relish instead of apple sauce. This does exactly what it says on the tin and we love it.
Lazy Lohan’s 58 Canongate, 0131 556 8999 Housed just a few minutes walk from the Parliament, LL’s is a good shout for a quiet lunch, boasting as it does a good soup and sandwich menu. Equally popular is the evening menu when this small bistro comes to life. With good vegetarian options, delicious home-made bread and a midweek early-bird menu – lest we forget the home-made desserts – Lohan’s provides ample reason to be cheerful. Mother India Café 3–5 Infirmary Street, 0131 524 9801 Ah, Mother India. Those familiar with the Glasgow branches of this curry emporium will be licking their lips at the sheer mention of the name. The one- sided menu has about 40 dishes designed to share, like an Indian version of tapas. Okra and tomato is a subtle, spicy, fresh-tasting dish; aubergine and spiced potato has good chunks of both; and don’t even get us started on the fish dishes . . . Bliss.
Petit Paris 38–40 Grassmarket, 0131 226 2442 With its proliferation of pubs, the Grassmarket has not always had the kudos it deserves. That looks to be changing as the area – and the eateries – are enjoying a facelift and some well earned attention at the moment. The first thing you notice in Petit is the bustling atmosphere and varied menu, while the carafes of house wine ensure the culinary experience begins in good spirits.
■ EDINBURGH CASTLE A shining beacon on Edinburgh’s landscape, the castle has enjoyed its various statuses as medieval fortification, temporary prison, seat of parliament, royal residence, and now world- renowned symbol of Scotland. The views are awesome, even if the viewpoints can be windy. There’s also more to the Castle than royal memorabilia, with a chance to see the Scottish Crown Jewels, the tiny St Margaret’s Chapel, the Scottish War Memorial and War Museum, as well as a slightly off-the-wall ‘dog cemetery’ for regimental mascots. Look out too for special events year-round. Castle Hill, 0131 225 9846, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk 14 THE LIST 24 Sep–8 Oct 2009
SHOPPING A wander up the Royal Mile showcases Embra’s ability to do small, kitsch and just a little special in all its glory. Heading from the Palace up, expect a hefty wad of tartan-tasticness before hitting the shops properly at St Mary’s Street and Jeffrey Street. Present is a must for those who are looking for jewellery or indeed any number of gift ideas with a quirky twist. Nearby, Corniche and Ragamuffin can assist your fashion needs, while List favourite Lickety Split, the cutest retro sweetie shop the city has to offer, will provide you with sustenance along the way. Then hit Cockburn Street, home to an array of suitably grungy-cool clothes shops, namely Pie in the Sky and Cookie (check out their dress collection); one-off T-shirts at Fabrick, as well as homeware at Eden. And so to the mighty wares of Victoria Street. Check out the uber-hip gallery and bookstore Analogue and Totty Rocks run by two former ECA fashion lecturers. Nearby, Swish keeps it cool with skate smart gear. And so to the Grassmarket and West Port, where Helios Fountain offers ample reason to stop in and rummage. This area is also home to some of the capital’s finest vintage and fashion shops – don’t miss Fabhatrix, Bill Baber’s and of course, Armstrong’s. Not forgetting the combined delights of Barnardo’s Vintage, Herman Brown, Godiva and Pageant , which should leave you wanting for nothing.
Armstrong’s