Treasure Island It’s in a workaday venue on scruffy Rose Street, but that’s just the way rogue-turned-buccaneer David Ramsden likes it. As The Dogs takes to the ocean wave, Claire Ritchie stepped aboard
D avid Ramsden continues to refine and expand his innovative and much imitated style around central Edinburgh, with Seadogs the latest addition to his burgeoning restaurant empire. The trademark mismatched old furniture and crockery are here, contrasting nicely with the sharp white walls, red plastic water jugs and sporadic doggy motifs. The menu also features many of the original Dogs ideas – dishes for sharing, revitalised old faves and hearty seasonal grub at low, low prices. A starter of smoked mackerel arrives warm, and served on toast with a peppery rhubarb jam – an interesting combination that really works. Classic fish’n’chips come in many styles: choose from coley, trout, plaice or whitebait, coated in either beer batter or oats, and served with classic mushy peas and delightful home-made tartare
10 THE LIST 18 Mar–1 Apr 2010
sauce. Many dishes can be served for one, two, or even four people – paella, fish pie and a whole baked bream being a selection of these. Puddings are hearty affairs, from a traditional rice pudding with jam to a giant treacle sponge for two with the obligatory home-made custard alongside. Just like mum used to make. + Great tasting food at knockdown prices – The persistent ping of the service hatch
43 Rose Street, City Centre, Edinburgh, 0131 225 8028, www.seadogsonline.co.uk,
Mon-Sun noon–4pm; 5–10pm. Ave. price two-
course meal £10 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)
> RECENT OPENINGS The best of the new restaurant, café and bar openings in Glasgow and Edinburgh, covered in every issue by The List’s team of independent reviewers
535 Great Western Road, West End, 0141 357 3033, www.wudon-noodlebar.co.uk, £6.50 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner) A slick makeover has kitted this new noodle bar on busy Great Western Road with white walls, blonde wood and wide windows, helping to lift the mood and give a fresh openness to the diminutive interior, making the most of its nooks and crannies. The menu is also small, homing in on simple descriptions of broth, noodle and rice dishes, most offering choices of meats and fish including a ‘wee dishes’ section that proposes a tapas style course. Only one bento box is available but a new sushi menu is being prepared.
QUEEN OF SHEBA 175 St George’s Road, Charing Cross, 0141 331 0192, £17 (dinner) Given the intriguing novelty of this Abyssinian restaurant, it’s perhaps no surprise that it has been slightly overwhelmed by its popularity since it opened in December. Large serving trays, covered by a woven basket, come draped with several huge, thick, pancake-like injera breads and various beef and lamb stews flavoured with Ethiopian butter or spices. With utilitarian screens and African artefacts the decor has a half-finished look and service can be slowish, but staff are so eager to please that it easy to forgive.
THE FLAVOUR CO 517a Great Western Road, West End, 0141 339 5967 Settled in the student hub of Great Western Road, The Flavour Co is a daytime sandwich bar-café doing its best to make a mark. And it isn't doing a bad job. The décor lacks charm, but the ingredients are fresher even than the new white paint inside. Sandwiches can be served on a variety of breads while brightly coloured fruit salads come in generous portions, and the fresh smoothies are bursting with strong, full fruit flavours. With imaginative combinations (the chocolate pudding is made using avacado and coconut milk), this place has flair as well as flavour.
Edinburgh THE CELLAR DOOR
44–46 George IV Bridge, Old Town, www.thecellardooredinburgh.com, 0131 226 4155, £9.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner) Formerly part of the Olive Branch mini-chain, this plucky newcomer is clearly aiming to change the fortunes of its central yet ill-starred site. A narrow street-level patisserie and coffee shop enjoys prime frontage, while the hidden downstairs restaurant offers a classic bistro menu specialising in steaks. The
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