TRAVEL SCOTLAND very good for lunch, so we grab the diminutive ferry – a tiny boat manned by the weathered fisherman responsible (yes, really) for what we find on our plates minutes later. A huge plate of seafood – langoustines, mackerel pate, crab and oysters is laid before us with slabs of homemade bread for a princely £16 – but it’s worth every bite and big enough to share. After washing that down with some cold ginger beer, inspired by the Scottish sunshine, we take off to adventure round the surrounding woodland walks. A nice spot for wildlife lovers, visitors have been known to spot otters, seals, red deer and have recorded more than 100 bird species. A few hours later, our return to Mull sees us meandering through a small unmarked village
MULL & OBAN
From delis to distilleries there’s much to indulge the taste-buds, without breaking the bank
KITCHEN GARDEN DELICATESSEN This bustling enterprise is heaving with Scottish produce. The small but overstuffed entrance reveals a bounty of rustic breads, cheeses, fresh ground coffee and shelves groaning with hundreds of whisky brands. There’s more browsing space in the back shop boasting vinegars, jams and chutneys plus modern Scots delicacies such as Inverawe trout caviar and bloody mary salsa. A mezzanine level hosts a sprightly coffee shop, which makes the most of in- house produce such as Mull cheddar or local smoked fish. 14 George Street, Oban, 01631 566332, kitchengardenoban.co.uk
OBAN CHOCOLATE COMPANY Established in 2003, this once small business has grown to become an award- winning enterprise, making sweet treats entirely by hand on their premises in Oban. The shop and café are open plan, and viewing windows allow you to watch the chocolatiers at work in the factory, with interpretive panels to explain the process. They produce two types of chocolate: truffles and moulded chocolates, and all recipes are developed in-house with no artificial additives. 34 Corran Esplanade, Oban, 01631 566099, obanchocolate.co.uk
TOBERMORY CHOCOLATE Established in 1991 in a derelict stone workshop, Tobermory Chocolate has been producing handmade chocolates for nearly 20 years. Now operating from larger premises, they have room for a gift shop and café where you can choose from an array of cakes, pastries and luxury hot chocolate. 56/57 Main Street, Tobermory, 01688 302 526, tobchoc.co.uk
TOBERMORY DISTILLERY This quaint old distillery, the only one on the island of Mull, reopened in 1990 and continues to produce two whiskies – a malt and blend, namely the Tobermory and Ledaig. A £3.50 tour proves thoroughly enjoyable with a free dram offered at the end for good measure. Tobermory, Isle of Mull, 01688 302645, tobermory.co.uk
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to get ‘home’. Outside one farmhouse, a simple, colourful chalk board reads ‘Strawberries £2’. I jump out and drop my money into an honesty tray overflowing with notes and coins, and pick up a bulbous brown bag of goodies. They are delicious – and the island is brimming with just such finds. The next day in Tobermory we indulge in the more obvious ones, namely the fabulous Mull Cheese farm (again it runs on an honesty box), we sample some Tobermory chocolate and indulge in an afternoon dram, courtesy of the Tobermory distillery (see panel, below left). Having snacked all day on some of the island’s finest exports, we round things off with a poke of fish and chips from the cabin on the stone pier (there year-round and well worth a trip if you want to enjoy some local fish without breaking the bank). We wash it down with a pint of the local ale at the popular Mishnish pub. As we’re here during the Mendelssohn on Mull festival we indulge on some of their extraordinary concerts, while checking out some of the island’s other famous landmarks, including Duart and Glenmore castles.
TUESDAY BARCALDINE, OBAN Having navigated the single-track roads of Mull for a few days, there’s something pleasing about getting off the boat at Oban and heading towards Barcaldine House (see panel, page 105). Pitching itself as something of a home-away-from-home feel, this country house, 20 minutes outside Oban, is just that – assuming your house is beautifully furnished and immaculate, that is. Having been greeted at the door, we are taken into a wide hall, there is no reception as such, all adding to the homeliness it intends to instil. Recently renovated and with chef Oskars Kalinins at the helm, this culinary find at the heart of the Argyll countryside is a good shout if you’re looking for total R&R. Walking, climbing and boat trips are available nearby, as well as the obligatory slew of castles and gardens, but guests are encouraged to simply enjoy the food at hand, and use the house as their own.
The food certainly doesn’t disappoint, with highlights including pan-fried Loch Linnhe langoustines and a roasted loin of red deer with pomme fondant and venison jus; the whole thing is rounded off beautifully with peppered strawberries and lemon, and various textures of chocolate. Those looking for a little in-house entertainment can enjoy the vast billiards room upstairs. Breakfast focuses equally on local produce with the full Scottish breakfast proving to be the star of the show. Replenished, we head to our next stop.
WEDNESDAY OBAN TO BALQUHIDDER Reaching Mhor is like entering another world. Their motto is ‘Be Mhor, Live Mhor’, and they’re not wrong. While so many of Scotland’s foodies harp on about local produce with big community spirit, Tom Lewis and his family do it with bells on. Tom’s methods are simple: be slow with food, be seasonal and Scottish, be involved with the community and be green and clean. Those who have seen him on the TV will know him as larger than life. And his food certainly packs a punch too. Having taken over the business from his father, Tom has taken
boutique hotelling to a whole new level. Set in the heart of the Trossachs National Park, visitors must wind along a four-mile road just outside the village of Balquhidder (home of their sister operation The Library Tearoom). Located right on the banks of Loch Voil, everything is hands-on here: organic vegetables come straight from the garden, bread comes fresh from their bakery, eggs come courtesy of their hens, while any of the cattle on their 2000 acre farm could end up on your plate. Run by brothers and sister Tom, Dick and Melanie Lewis, with Tom’s wife Lisa holding fort at the tearoom, this is a