FOOD & DRINK
NEWS & REVIEWS
PRIME TIME Glasgow’s eating-out scene has gone red in tooth and claw. David Kirkwood mans up for a visit to the latest mean and meaty opening in the City Centre
W hat did Glaswegians eat before pulled pork? Nostalgia now washes over the days before the rise of the brioche bun, when craft beers were a niche market. In their place is a ruthless world where every gourmet burger in town is blogged, snapped and reviewed on Facebook as soon as the meat has left the smoker.
This month-old basement venue is riding the crest of a wave that began with takeaways and street food stalls about a year ago. Its arrival feels like the logical conclusion – hence the self-referential name. It’s also pleasantly macho, from the neon sign saying simply MEAT, to the open brickwork walls, woody-browns, leather menus and the brushed-metal spotlights above each table. This is Meat Bar. Rugged. More Hemingway than Fitzgerald. Credentials are strong: meat that’s smoked for twelve hours, traceable back to the farm it came from; tap lagers from Samuel Adams and Williams Brothers, with lots of artisan brews in the fridge. It’s not massive, necessitating a concise cocktail list and a small but classy selection of spirits. Yet there’s an impressive spread to the menu beyond the house ‘grinder’ burger (itself jolly good) and, yes, pulled pork.
The Iberico slider is a cracker, unashamedly pink
MEAT BAR
and juicy, tasting almost like beef but with that lovely smoky, fatty edge that makes most things ‘pig’ so delicious. Crispy pig’s cheeks, mind you, display a more delicate side to the kitchen: the crunchy texture and bright, citrusy-dressed micro veg give some respite from the ruggedness. Not for long, though, as the ‘French Dip’ – shreds of brisket, Swiss, mustard and onions, all in the right quantities – struts out and provides the sort of decadently savoury dish that lingers on the lips all day.
If the meat lives up to the hype, some sides disappoint: ‘silky bone marrow’ gravy is too salty, while truffle and parsley chips are needlessly extravagant and fussy (chips cost extra, by the way – another trend in burgerland). One also wonders how many people will order a second ‘meat infused cocktail’ after the novelty of the first one wears off. But the overall sense is of a slick bar that’s enjoyable to drink in, where the eating is both fun and marvellously full-on.
+ Indulgent meat dishes at every turn - Sides need a bit of work
SIDE DISHES News to nibble on After 20-plus years on Woodlands Road, Grassroots Organics has closed its doors to focus on their raw food business Miss Wallflower and the Clean Plates Café at Maryhill Burgh Halls. A contrasting focus is to be found at 48A West Regent Street where newcomer Burger Meats Bun aims to send out simple but high quality handmade burgers in a casual environment.
There’s a bit of an Asian surge in Edinburgh, with news that Port of Siam from Newhaven is opening a branch in the former Blue Moon Café off Broughton Street. Meanwhile, popular Stockbridge Market stallholder Harajuku Kitchen is hoping for an August opening for a new Japanese deli and eating spot replacing Scott’s Deli in Bruntsfield.
Why be a spectator, when you can be a performer… WIN the chance to perform live at this year’s Fringe on 7th August – plus £750 of High Street vouchers to be won.*
For details and entry, visit: facebook.com/ deucharsipa * Terms and conditions apply. Our Facebook promotions are only open to those over 25 years of age. Closing date for entries is midnight on 31st July 2013. For full terms and conditions relating to this promotion visit facebook.com/ deucharsipa. Promoter: The Caledonian Brewery Company Limited, 42 Slateford Road, Edinburgh, EH11 1PH
The Beer of the Fringe
142 West Regent Street, City Centre, Glasgow, G2 2RQ, 0141 204 3605, themeatbar.co.uk Food served: Sun–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm. Ave. price two-course meal: £16
caledonianbeer.com
36 THE LIST 11 Jul–22 Aug 2013