FISH & CHIPS
T I P L I S T S T I P L I S T S BEST FISH
THE CODFATHER Luca Brasi sleeps with the i shes, and these guys are wise to things piscine.
L’ALBA D’ORO
Four decades of frying experience equals perfectly cooked i llets.
THE TAILEND
An unrivalled selection of seafood, the haddock is a sound place to start.
WEE FRY
Sourced by master Troon i shmonger MacCallum’s, the seafood is top drawer.
KING’S CAFE (71 ELMBANK ST)
Under new management, this venerable City Centre chippy offers thickly i lleted haddock in a light, golden batter.
OLD SALTY’S (1126 ARGYLL ST) Generously sized pieces produce a fresh and l aky favourite at this Finnieston newcomer.
BEST CHIPS
THE TAILEND Beef dripping is the key to these cracking chips. Sorry veggies.
CAFÉ PICCANTE
Crisp, clean and light, these chips allow you to sidestep the stodge.
L’ALBA D’ORO Firm and golden with soft centres, these are top-of-the-range chips.
GANDOLFI FISH TO GO Crispier than your average chippy chip, those from Gandoli ’s are a cut above.
MARIO’S Chunky chips with a l oury interior that
go easy on the oil. WEE FRY
Evenly cut, somewhat beefy, with a crispy edge and good l avour.
BEST EXTRAS
CAFÉ PICCANTE The only place that provides a dance off
with your fry off. L’ALBA D’ORO
Boasts an extensive wine list that puts most off-licences to shame.
GORGIE FISH BAR The banter with the regulars is prime- time weekend entertainment at its best.
MERCHANT CHIPPIE When price matters, you can get a good supper at almost half the cost of others.
GANDOLFI FISH TO GO
Creamy tartare sauce that’s an ocean away from competitors’ saucy
offerings.
18 THE LIST 14 Nov–12 Dec 2013
SHIPS AND CHIPS Are i sh and chips better by the seaside? Jay Thundercliffe pie headed down the Costa del Clyde to check out The Wee Kelpie
If there is one take- away meal that can be enhanced by location, it is a i sh supper. This Clydeside chippy in the suitably seaside resort of Helensburgh offers exceptionally good suppers that are perfect for eating on a waterfront bench with the widening river and its salty air as a backdrop. The Wee Kelpie’s chips are as magical as the mythical Celtic waterhorse of the establishment’s name. Hand-cut and huge, they are wonderfully tasty, big as butchers’ i ngers, crisp on the outside and l uffy inside – the sort of chip that releases unintentionally audible murmurs of pleasure. Haddock is thickly i lleted and l aky, without skin or bones, wrapped in a super-crispy, shell-like batter, while homemade mushy peas are a cut above, vibrantly coloured and fresh-tasting. Monki sh tails, halibut and calamari also feature on the menu, as do popular haggis bites – or try
the surf and the surf and turf of scallops and black pudding. Plenty of offers, gluten-free suppers and friendly banter keep locals and not-so-locals coming back for more.
To p R e v i e w e r T i p s :
• GET HOME QUICK Fish suppers are the original street food, not happy with an elongated transit, so don’t dilly-dally if you’re heading home. • ARE YOU GETTING FRESH? It shouldn’t matter if it’s a Tuesday at 10pm or the middle of a Saturday- night rush – if it’s not freshly cooked to order, forget about it.
A HANDFUL OF THINGS WE’VE LEARNT FROM DOING THE RESEARCH
• SIZE MATTERS That huge butterl ied i llet might look mightily impressive as it’s dipped into the fryer, but for beautifully l aky i sh, look for a smaller, thicker cut. • SWEAT THE SMALL STUFF Homemade tartare sauce, jazzed-up mushy peas and even a wee wedge of lemon are all signs of a chippy that pays attention to detail.
THE GOURMET OPTION Is it worth going posh? Keith Smith ordered sit-in i sh and chips at one of Edinburgh’s top venues to discover if it really makes a difference pushing the boat out
At £14, Tom Kitchin’s upmarket Stockbridge gastropub, The Scran & Scallie, has one of the dearest servings of i sh and chips around. Sure, you’re also paying for the service, the surroundings the surroundings
and the side plates, but strip that away, and how do the i sh and chips compare? Haddock is i lleted to a uniform size, so that each can be cooked for a precise length of time, ensuring the l esh is consistently the l esh i l aky and i rm, and l a also retains vital moisture. The batter, made with a b touch of beer, has t a rich amber hue, a and it’s crunchy a and gratifying an without any cloying w greasiness or limp gr sogginess. That lack so of stodge factor also of means you can i nish me the entire portion without any pangs of gluttonous guilt. Chips are the size of Jenga blocks, and make a satisfying snap when you break them in half, yet are l oury and velvety inside. Triple-cooked, they’re blanched initially at 110C before being double-fried at higher temperatures to achieve that extra exterior crispiness. A wedge of lemon and a chunky, creamy, homemade tartare sauce complete an impressive package. It might cost more than twice as much as the most expensive takeaway equivalent, but it’s easily three times as good.