FOOD & DRINK NEWS & REVIEWS
HONOURABLE MENTION Glasgow has a new player on the high-end dining table, but as Kevin Scott discovers, it’s thrilling grilling rather than star-seeking
A decade barren of Michelin stars means that the chattering inevitably starts up when a chef with credentials turns up in town. Martin Wishart has the accolade secured at his original Edinburgh restaurant and at Cameron House by Loch Lomond, but his high-profile new venture at Malmaison in Glasgow is more appropriately viewed not as a venue reaching for the stars but an extension of his brasserie concept, first aired in the original Honours on North Castle Street in the capital.
Part of a £1.2m refurbishment within Malmaison Glasgow that also incorporates a chic cocktail bar, the basement restaurant has 106 covers across an interior of understated elegance styled by Curious Design, with pitched ceilings, sturdy columns, red semi-circular booths and wooden floors. On one wall Peter Lavery’s bold Glasgow and Clyde murals emphasise the local identity. This is high-end brasserie dining with prices to match – three courses could set you back north of £50, which makes a prix fixe menu at £22.50 a decent deal indeed. Former One Devonshire Gardens head chef Andrew Greenan has returned to Glasgow to lead The Honours’ kitchen in impressive style. Innovative starters are a multi-sensory delight – from a light and foamy crab cappuccino to an indulgent
THE HONOURS
tagliatelle with scallops in dense truffle purée.
Star of the show is a well-considered range of steaks cooked in a Josper Grill, an enclosed charcoal- fired grill that allows chefs to cook cuts quickly, while remaining tender with flavours locked in. Pride of place goes to the The Honours Chateaubriand for two, which despite its £69 tag is the biggest selling item on the menu. A rump of lamb – also cooked in the Josper – comes on a bed of puy lentils so bursting with seasoning that the meat itself takes a back seat, while a range of fish and game options give the menu more depth than you’d expect to find in a high-end kitchen. Desserts are showy and compelling: pear sorbet combined with a sharp chocolate parfait is the kind of dish that stifles conversation until the plate is clean.
Wishart spent two years looking for the right venue in Glasgow and the success of the venture could see the partnership extended nationwide. Glaswegians needn’t be too concerned by that, however – they’ve secured their new year honours.
+ Strength in depth across the menu - Interior design classy but not captivating
Malmaison, 278 West George Street, City Centre, Glasgow, 0141 572 1001, thehonours.co.uk
Ave. price of a two-course meal: £18.50 (set lunch) / £35 (dinner) 58 THE LIST 2 Apr–4 Jun 2015
DRINKS NEWS
After almost 25 years, the closure of Bar Ten on Mitchell Lane will have the city’s older bar crawlers raising a glass to one of Glasgow’s most enduring bars. Taking its place is Tabac, a venture by Fergus McVicar of Chinaskis and Paul Crawford, former owner of Sub Club. It features a dedicated weekend bar selling panther’s milk, a milky Spanish cocktail.
Chris Flint and Kara Anderson’s likeable Leith bar Bond No.9 has overcome a little local difficulty with its landlords by flitting to the top of Broughton Street, installing itself at 4 Picardy Place, most recently home to their own Clouds + Soil venture.
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SYGN BAR & KITCHEN EDINBURGH
Enjoy a cool draught Birra
Moretti accompanied with fresh produce, tasty dishes and great fl avours. In the heart of the city’s West End, this stylish bar and restaurant has something for everyone
sygn.co.uk