DRINKS NEWS

Over the gin? Whisky is set to reclaim its crown as Edinburgh’s favourite drink as a range of distillers scramble for space in the city. First off the mark though is the Holyrood Distillery. Now open at the edge of Holyrood Park, at the moment the only way to get a feel for their wares is through a distillery tour. If the new recipe Irn-Bru isn’t quite doing it for you the morning after the night before, then try the new revival drink made in Glasgow called Bounce Back. It’s been scientifically formulated by a couple of biotechnology boffins and is designed to boost the liver, mind and immune system to get the walking dead through the next day.

FOOD & DRINK NEWS & REVIEWS

A BIRD IN HAND One of Glasgow’s grandest hotel buildings has shifted owners, splashed out on a restaurant refurb and refocused the food and drink, as David Kirkwood discovers

W hen it opened in 2009, the Blythswood quickly became one of the best-known ‘boutique’ hotels in Glasgow a must- go place for cocktails, and a market menu of impressive food for a good price in a great setting. Latterly it was perhaps most associated with spa days, weekend shopping breaks and couples’ getaways. Then, last year, it was acquired by the InterContinental Hotels Group as part of their high- end Kimpton brand. With that comes a rebrand and refurb that seeks to (re)maximise the potential of this gorgeous former RAC building looking onto the gardens of Blythswood Square.

Upon entrance, both lavish expense and shift of direction are clear. The grand space still drifts from reception to dining area (in a way that’s curiously rare in Glasgow). But all eyes are now on a centrepiece marble bar that twinkles with glassware and cluster lights, energising the room while reinforcing its mixed drink pedigree. A concise menu of classics is executed with understated know- how. Think boozy blood orange sidecars garnished with a branded lemon, or Old Fashioneds mixed in gigantic ice-bowls. It’s the clearest indicator of where the £1 million refurbishment money has gone, but the whole space is looking slick. A palette of cream, bronze and earthy

BO & BIRDY

tones sets things up nicely for a dining experience which is considerably less formal. Heavyweight ingredients sing their Scottish provenance and tough verbs jostle asparagus is ‘shaved’, scallions ‘burnt’, Jersey royals ‘charred’. Flavour combinations are well worn. Burrata and a pesto-esque drizzle get a salty kick by green olives; while in a ceviche-style dish, tender scallops are sliced thin and offset by strips of grapefruit. Not overly fancy, but fancy enough. These are not starters, mind, but small plates. That’s the vibe. There are sharing plates of bone-in sirloin or monkfish. Of the larger dishes, St Bride’s chicken breast nicely coloured and served with gnocchi, oyster mushrooms and spinach is a lovely assemblage of savoury touches and quality. The £15 macaroni cheese is the only genuine disappointment, a dish that intrigues with its considerable price, then falls short with a thin sauce and crust that needs more crisp. So the execution isn’t always quite on- point, but the overall appeal of the place has certainly moved, with the times, in the right direction.

+ Maintains the reputation for a classy pre-dinner cocktail

- The mac and cheese needs some TLC

11 Blythswood Square, Glasgow, G2 4AD, 0141 240 1633, boandbirdy.com Breakfast: Tue–Fri 7–10.30am; Sat–Mon 7–11am; Lunch: Mon–Fri 12.30–2.30pm; Sat/Sun 12.30–3pm;

Dinner: Sun–Thu 5.30–9.30pm; Fri/Sat 5.30–10pm Average cost of two course lunch/dinner: £28

44 THE LIST 1 Sep–31 Oct 2019