FOOD & DRINK FOOD & DRINK SUPPORTED BY
offal, less common cuts of meat, offal, less common cuts of meat, and more unusual seafood. and more unusual seafood. The strongest infl uences came The strongest infl uences came from Mark Hix and Fergus from Mark Hix and Fergus Henderson, both of whom Henderson, both of whom came to The Dogs over the came to The Dogs over the next few years. The opening was in May The opening was in May 2008, just as the fi nancial 2008, just as the fi nancial climate was becoming climate was becoming stormy. A year or so later, the stormy. A year or so later, the unit underneath The Dogs unit underneath The Dogs fell vacant. I agreed we fell vacant. I agreed we could take it on, creating an could take it on, creating an Italian version of The Dogs, Italian version of The Dogs, Amore Dogs.
incredulity, incredulity, I look back at this time I look back at this time with to be with to be honest. I agreed to take on honest. I agreed to take on another unit in Rose Street: another unit in Rose Street: Seadogs. I also decided Seadogs. I also decided to make the unused space to make the unused space beneath Amore Dogs into beneath Amore Dogs into a comfy, table service bar: a comfy, table service bar: this was Underdogs.
any any Looking back, I would Looking back, I would say the biggest challenge say the biggest challenge to restauranteur to restauranteur the choosing, and is is the choosing, and keeping of, good staff, keeping of, good staff, particularly chefs – particularly chefs – although these are the although these are the hardest to retain. Most hardest to retain. Most restaurants successful chef-owner are operated, because, at the end of the day, people are coming for the food, not the chat. people are coming for the food, not the chat. many or even more pressures – but In most of my ventures, the most successful many or even more pressures – but In most of my ventures, the most successful these are the ones I have most experience of, and periods were when the original chef was still can examine. there.
THROUGHOUT HIS CAREER, FIRSTLY IN THE MUSIC INDUSTRY BEFORE TURNING TO HOSPITALITY, RAMSDEN WAS CHALLENGED BY MENTAL HEALTH ISSUES:
I don’t know any other anorexics. It is, after all, a secretive condition, rife with guilt, anger, and shame; not to mention a crippling lack of self worth. I have seen a few over the years: the condition seems to give one a kind of radar. Both rock’n’roll and the restaurant worlds are pretty demanding environments, involving pressure, competition and often some confl ict. The two industries aren’t unique – it’s clear that many occupations and professions possess as
Yes, mental health is an issue in our ever-more complicated lives, but it is also a fact of life. Very few people are unaffected completely, if any; therefore it behoves us, where possible, to deal with it as best we can, but NOT to be ashamed, and not to keep it hidden. If the issues are out in the open, there is the chance that the air and light will lessen the impact; and that empathy may well be forthcoming, sometimes from the most unexpected quarter. Being nicer to ourselves, and to those around us, is a great place to start. David Ramsden’s four-part account of his restaurant career is published at food.list. co.uk/articles. For support, advice and information on issues of mental health, go to hospitalityhealth.org.uk
WALKING THE DOGS With restaurants such as Fitz(Henry), Rogue and The Dogs, David Ramsden has been the most distinctive and driven restaurateur in Edinburgh over the last two decades. Here we feature some passages from an honest and often revealing four- part series of articles available in full at list.co.uk in which he writes about his time at the frontline of the capital’s dining scene
IN 2001, RAMSDEN OPENED ROGUE IN EDINBURGH’S WEST END:
The initial idea was to offer a menu similar to Fitz(Henry), but more expansive. This changed completely after a visit to the Ivy in London with an old chum, Matt Hobbs. Elsewhere in the restaurant that night was Tom Cruise, Nicole Kidman, the impresario whose name cannot be spoken (#MeToo). The whole experience – the food, service and ambience – was an epiphany.
So we returned to Edinburgh and set about designing a restaurant and a menu for Rogue. The menu was, to me, a work of art. It had a range from pizza, pasta and great sandwiches to fi ne steaks and seafood. Rogue was reviewed by Charlie Fletcher in Scotland on Sunday: a glowing piece which really kickstarted the restaurant. From that day it was a great run, often full at lunch and dinner. Just to stand back during service and watch the room work was a trip. To this day, Rogue is the unit I am most proud of.
ROGUE CLOSED IN 2004. FOUR YEARS LATER, HE SET UP THE DOGS ON HANOVER STREET:
The vision I had was to offer an honest menu of well-cooked British classics, leaning hard on
David Ramsden’s various ventures have been covered by The List
magazine over the years. For a closer look through The List’s entire back catalogue, search list.co.uk/archive