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TAKE A BUS THERE THIS FORTNIGHT

The sheep enjoy he driver nf the hus at ('raignure is in tin mnndifnr views down to fun and games. \\ lule mnst nt his passengers are Just Tobermory and the nff the mnrning‘s ferry frnm ()han. I happen tn have mainland beyond transferred frnm the first cnach nut nf 'l‘nhermnry. lirankly the hladder‘s feeling a hit fttll. But my request In rttn tn the nearby lnn hefnre we set nff fnr l'innnphnrt and the ferry tn lnna is met with stiff defiance: ‘Ynu had the whnle hnat trip.‘ While he relents. his mnnd isn't imprnved. liirst it's annther passenger with the temerity tn change seats while we‘re nn nur way. '\\'hat are ynu dning‘." he harks. ‘l.ad_v. there‘s an mnving ahnut while w e're in mntinn.~ Then. there are the nther drivers nn the single track rnad thrnugh fnrested (ilen Mnre tn rncky nutcrnppings nf the Rtlss nf Mull. "l‘hink they nwn the place.‘ he mutters as an apprnaching estate car flies tnwards its. ignnring a passing place. Still. he is expert at negntiating the numernus and nccasinnally unsettling curves (if the increasingly narrnw A849 nn this misty day. A little attitude frnm a wnrld— weary driver nffers snme entertainment value and it's a mndest price tn he paid t'nr tackling the Isle nf Mull using puhlic tt‘anspnrt. .\'nt

having a mntnr dnes nnt make this the easiest jnttrney. true ennugh. But this inner llehridean island is a trnve nf ' wildlife and ecnlngically minded enterprise. lt cnuld he at the fnrefrnnt of green tnurism. And snme day it might he. thnugh mnre frequent hus service and cnaches with hike racks wnuld help the ecn-tt'aveller l'm attempting tn he. Near l"innnphnrt. Ardlanish liarm raises sheep. heef. pntatnes and carrnts nrganically. Acrnss the crystal hltte. white-capped Snund nf lnna. the Argyll llntel grnws 50‘; nf the vegetahles it serves. lts tidy garden near the path tn the famnus medieval ahhey has nfficial nrganic certilicatinn. But Daniel .\1nrgan. the Argyll's nwner. dnes nnt necessarily make a hig deal nf it. He has a PM) in land n refnrm issues and has advised nther island cnmmunities nn

huy-nuts nf ahsentee lairds. lie is clear ahnut the gnal.

Eco tourism is blossoming on the beautiful isle of Mull but hnwever: minimising the impact nn the envirnnment. which . , , . . ' gnes hand in hand with a sncial cnmmitment tn life nn a 't S a Shame the Same can t be sad for the pUth transport, small island. Sn. in additinn tn the garden. the hntel as Barry Shelby discovers. prntnntes nrganic meat. follows. the Marine ('nnservatinn

Snciety"s guidelines when it cnmes tn huying fish and uses relillahle hnttles nl‘ shampnn in the nvernight rnnms. There are an hair shirts. nn feeling nf sacrifices. This is nnt an update nn St (‘nlumha‘s mnnastic existence. just trying tn live (nr visit) in tune with nature. The nearby St (‘nlumha Hntel alsn has an nrganic garden hurgenning with hrassicas - r —- - - ~ ~- 7. - . . . and lettuce. while annther field has been set aside boost, but the islands of Isla. Staffa and Ulva are the real jewels in Mull’s crown. specifically l'nr the endangered cnrncrake in nest and breed safely;

WHAT'S THE STORY iN‘ TOBERMORY‘?

Beforethteearances and a potato famine, over 10,000 people lived in Mull.

Today, that figure is closer to 3000. but many are still descendants of ancient

clans. Children’s programme Balamory has given Tobermory a recent tourism

1’, Var—7’: 7.7,". THE LIST 99