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Slovak to the future
Chris Bradley beats a path to one of Europe’s less well-known destinations, only to find it strangely familiar. he challenge. should I choose to accept it. is to ligure out itist where in the hell I am. I'd pill on my exploring shoes and
set ol'l~ l'or the unknown but having barely arrived. I‘m getting a distinct
l'eeling ol'deja vu. l've l'ound mysell'
in a land of historic towns. picturesque castles and large swathes ol‘ unspoilt countryside. where the threat of rain seems ever present. The locals retain a strong sense of tradition and a penchant l’or the bagpipes. despite having endured a history ol' domination by their neighbours. It's so much like our own lair nation that I check my flight tickets again just to make sure. There it is in black and white: this is Slovakia.
Since gaining independence in 1993. Slovakia has struggled to emerge from the shadow of the (melt Republic. lt's hardly the lirst place you‘d think of as a holiday destination. but now. as a fully- fledged member of the lil'. this small nation has linally put itsell‘ on the map. It still has something ol‘ an ‘undiscm'ered' feeling. but this may not last long. Bratislava is now regularly served by budget airlines and. like its more illustrious neighbours. is last becoming a draw for stag patties. So here‘s why you should go. and go now:
Bratislava: an unexploited gem Slovakia‘s capital is dissected by the Danube. Along the north bank. the old town is a wan‘en of atmospheric streets and squares lined with c‘al'es. boutiques and impressive Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Many of the city's grand old buildings now house museums and collections. or stage classical music concerts in the summer. The Municipal Museum in the l-lth century Old Town Hall is worth a look. as is an ascent of the Michael Tower. Bratislava‘s last surviving watchtower. Continuing on the cultural theme. take a look at one of the major galleries. such as
100 THE LIST T—Q‘. Set‘ 203'.“
TRAVEL
the Slovak National (iallery or the (‘ity .-\rt (iallery. You‘ll lillltl retrospectives of local artists. as well as central liuropean collections. covering everything from religious art to Impressionist and Modern. There's also world class ballet and opera on offer most evenings. at the Slovak National Theatre. Here you can mingle in the laviin and dressy surroundings and still pocket change from a tenner.
l)espite Bratislava‘s charms it manages to retain a surprisingly tranquil. laid-back atmosphere. ‘Most of the people who come to stay here are (iermansf inl'orms the landlady in our small pension. adding with sincerity. 'They come on cycle trips [0 Blltlllpc‘sl.‘ She seems mildly surprised that we have other intentions.
A_me|ting pot of history
In the past. everyone‘s had a say in running this place except tor the Slovaks themselves. Will they now go on to make a success of their new- l'ound independence‘.’ Only time will
tell. Meanwhile. the markers ol'
ancient history. l'allen empires and political rivalries are still highly visible. Bl'alislat\';t\ (iothic St Martins ('atltedral. site ol‘ numeroUs llabsburg coronations. is dwarfed by the ultra- modern .\'ovy Most (New Bridget. which sweeps across the Danube to the vast 'model socialist' suburbs. Outside the city. a short eniise up the Danube brings you to historic Devin
Castle. the former w'estem outpost of
the Hungarian Iimpire. This whole
A quiet square in Bratislava (above); .the Slovak National 1»
. Theatre; and the Navy Most (new ' bridge) below"